Like this:

You just never now what’s going to pop up at a beach break. I’d heard rumblings that there was a fun wave draining into the rip at a certain street end. On the hunch I jammed over at noon to find the place just going off.

Dead glass, winding lefthanders, racing into the hole blown out by the rip. One guy way to the south. Three hours later it was still doing it’s magic but I just couldn’t do it anymore- I was beat.

So here’s a few pics of what it looked like- like every surf photographer always says, “These were the ‘tweeners, you should have seen the set waves”. But, seriously…

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